A quick sample of what a bivy is and can be is quite easy to understand. A bivy sack is used for those who require speed and short stays. If you’ll be hiking in one consistent season and won’t be on the trail for months on end, then a bivy sack gives reliable protection from the mosquitoes and elements. If you’ve got a mountain to conquer, then weight is important, and the bivy sack gives little room but provides lots of protection.

A bivy shelter, on the other hand, is good for those going over longer distances for longer periods of time. These weigh more than a bivy sack but give more room, which helps if you like to hold a book above your head to read. If you’re not a claustrophobic, then spending the night with mesh over head (mere inches) won’t bother you at all. These are fine as long as there will be no torrential downpours.

The last category of bivy camping is the compact bivy tent. If you’re the type that needs more room and doesn’t mind the extra weight—if 5lbs and 10lbs means the same to you, as you’ll only go 8 miles per day anyway—then by all means carry an extra pound or two. These tents are spacious, even roomy compared to the former two, and offer protection from more elements than dewy mornings.

Though there are a variety of bivy shelters, they all share some similarities in manufacturing and design. The floor of the tent, with footprint included, is made of a nylon material, very similar to normal tent designs. These are great for keeping out critters and keeping in a little heat. The other top section of the tent includes Gortex or other nylon fabrics. The material used today keeps the tent from ripping—it’s near impossible to rip a hole bigger. These keep the tent breathable, stick proof and offers reliable protection from Mother Nature’s elements.

Whether or not you choose to use a bivy shelter or not depends on how intimate you’d like to get with nature. If you don’t mind an under-the-stars experience, then by all means go bivy. If you like the idea of a solid roof over your head along with a feeling of indoor isolation, a bivy may not be for you. If you’re car camping, for example, a bivy might be a foolish choice as you’ll have no room to play with all the toys you bring along. Bivy tents are for those going on much longer treks, where weight is important and pertinent to gaining daily mileage. If the weather is going to be anything but perfect for the time of year, then you may want to pack properly and a bivy only keeps nice weather out. If the times are going to be rough, be privy to another tent and not the bivy.  

Let’s start out easy and begin with what you must/should bring on any hike, as long as you’re going to be cooking out-of-doors this is to say. The one item that tops the list is a cooking stove. Now, these come in various price ranges, but most quality ones that will last quite some time should cost less than $50 bucks. Additionally, you’ll need either a gas canister or other portable gas canister to attach to the stove. It’s imperative that you check to make sure the stove works and properly attaches to the gas canister before heading out—dry Ramen and crunchy macaroni only fuel you for so long! Either bring a wind screen for the stove (you’ll save tons of fuel) or build a rock wall every night to keep the flame burning hot.

Other pertinent related items to cooking with a stove include a pot set, frying pan, spatula, hot pad, pot grabber, grill rack and other cooking utensils. In order to eat, mind you, be sure to pack plates, bowls, cutlery, knife, drinking cup, thermos, can/bottle opener, and a collapsible water container. Other useful supplies include tin foil, cloth napkins and biodegradable soap. These things don’t have to weigh a lot either. Durable plastics and hybrid metals make carrying all that you need not so overbearing. The typical rule of thumb for such luxury, though, is the lighter the object the more it will cost. Don’t let either a healthy budget or a collapsing wallet decide whether you hit up the triad or not. Rich and poor sons and daughters alike take to trails equally here.

In either case, you want to bring the most caloric rich foods that weigh the least when frolicking on the footpath; it’s best to think in terms of meals and snacks. Such foods that provide not only nutrition but also are worth their (light) weight include some of the cheapest grocery store stock. For breakfast, be sure to pack oatmeal, granola, breakfast cereal bars, cereal, fresh or dried fruit, jam, pure syrup, and instant coffee, tea, cocoa, (powdered) eggs and milk, pancake mix and the like. Eating such foods at home may break the wasteline, but these foods pre-, mid- or post-trek will keep you fit and energized.

Lunch and dinner ideas are often centered around the stove to boot. Again, instant is the magic word: instant soups, noodles, sauces (for rice for example), gravies, protein meals and such will keep you full and happy. Other lunch and din-din ideas are even easier: canned or packaged meats, peanut-butter and jelly sandwiches, pasta, rice, eggs, cheese, potato flakes, non-bruisable veggies, freeze-dried meals, bouillon cubes, raisins and crackers all make great inclusions to much-needed meals. For dessert pack in marshmallows, powdered pudding mix, cookies, nuts and candy bars—these double as snacks as well. Don’t forget spices, seasoning, butter, salt/pepper, and your other favorite condiments (packing them in smaller bottles for rationing is a good idea). Cooking for yourself in the great outdoors is a simple feat, yes, but one that truly re-energizes you and keeps you bouncing over rock and ridge.

Weather can literally strike—thunder, lightning, hail, rain, snow, sun or heat—in any one form, and often these blows from Mother Nature’s can cause serious trauma if you (as hiker or camper) are not ready. In fact, my friend was killed a few years back by lightning—lightning that was off in the distance; it was sunny where he was standing!

One of the best ways to predict bad weather is to keep an “eye to the sky” so to speak. The sky always foretells what is going to happen—it’s just up to you (and some timely luck) to determine how soon. Be ready for snow in June, hail in July, hundred degree temps in May and UV that burns in minutes. While I can’t teach you everything you need to know in one go, I can teach you some easy way to augur what weather is just over the horizon.

Those little white floaty clouds that drift by as you laze away on the hillside show more than dragons, horses, unicorns, flying machines or whatever else your imagination conjectures. Yes, they tell you what weather is on the way. Generally, you can always tell when a warm or cold front is moving in by the clouds in the sky.

Warm Front: May Be Wet But Not Wicked

Warm fronts move very slowly compared to cold fronts. A warm front is simply defined as warm air aggregates that push cooler bodies of air away. These sorts of fronts can bring some rain, but they rarely cause major problems for campers or hikers.

 Clouds Under The Warm Front

Cirrus: If you’ve ever looked up in the sky and thought God had painted clouds with a huge brush, those are Cirrus clouds. They are feathery and can be ruffled.

Altostratus: This is that smoky and dense looking kinds of clouds that look like fog but often bring rain. They are not high in the sky, nor are they exactly on the ground.

Cirrocumulus: If you’ve ever looked up into the sky and saw a ring around the sun, almost like a nimbus of light, then you’ve seen cirrocumulus/cirrostratus clouds. These often have spaces of blue sky but are ridged like the bottom of cotton.

Cold Front: May Be Dry But Brings Witches

Cold fronts move very quickly, even though they are “cold” masses of air. Cold fronts are like a parasite, sneaking up on a victim before a bad sickness develops. If you’ve ever read a sailing novel, then you know something about barometric pressure. Once the “bottom falls out,” bad weather is inevitable. These fronts are the ones hikers and campers have to watch out for. When a cold front moves furtively, the weather can change without notice; the wind can start to blow and the malignity results.

Clouds Under the Cold Front

Cumulonimbus: If you’ve ever looked up and thought of cotton candy, then you’ve noticed cumulus clouds. Though not a miscreant by themselves, these babies tell you that rain may be likely later in the day. If not, at least you’ll have your rain gear out and ready. You’ll be lucky to just get rain, however. These bad boys often forecast worse weather. Often, these come in just as your afternoon is getting hotter and you’ve had a good day.

Cumulus: These are those clouds that are flat on bottom, puffy on top and scatter about, hovering like a thousands space ships from outer space. There is not any problem with these clouds, as long as they don’t turn into the abovementioned cumulonimbus type.

Caught When It’s Too Late

 If it’s too late and a thunderstorm has brewed, then there are some things you can do. Don’t be one of the 300 injuries or over 60 deaths caused by lighting each year in the US alone.

• Even though your evolutionary instincts tell you to get close to that tall tree, stay away. Lighting hits the tallest object around.
• Don’t head for higher ground and get away from ridges.
• Lighting likes metal; don’t carry your hiking poles attached to your backpack like lightning rods.
• It’s best to have little ground contact, as lighting travels through the ground and can reach (and shock) you. Keep something between yourself and the ground. It’s best to stay on your feet, ducking down if necessary.
• Don’t huddle close together.
• Every five seconds, thunder (sound) travels one mile. Once you see lighting, count the seconds until you hear thunder to figure its distance. In 20 seconds, the lighting is four miles away, for instance (5 seconds = 1 mile; 10 seconds = 2 miles; 15 seconds = 3 miles and so forth). Once you time the weather, it is tamer.       

Many people don’t hit the open trail for backpack camping or even go car camping because they are scared of boredom. Well, to some, nature can be a bit boring, if you get tired of natural beauty, animals, birds and trees, there’s always jokes. We’ve got the remedy for ennui that can overcome your camp. Here are some of the best campfire jokes and one-liners we could find after hours of scouring the Internet. Print this off and take it with you so you can be part of the anti-boredom squad the next time you sit around the fire pit.

Here are some tips left by campers on comment cards for the US Forest Service, collected from various sources, including lovetheoutdoors.com:

• The trails need to be wider so people can walk while holding hands.
• Ban walking sticks in wilderness. Hikers that use walking sticks are more likely to chase animals.
• All the mile markers are missing this year.
• Found a smoldering cigarette left by a hourse.
• Please avoid building trails that go uphill.
• Too many bugs and leeches and spider webs. Please spray the wilderness to rid the area of these pests.
• Please pave the trails so they can be plowed in the winter.
• Need more signs to keep the areas pristine.
• A McDonald’s would be nice at the trailhead.
• The places where trails do not exist are not well marked.
• [There are] too many rocks in the mountains.

From the same and other sources, here are some funny camping tips:

• When using a public campground, a tuba placed on your picnic table will keep the campsites on either side vacant.
• Effective January 1^st, you will have to enlist in the Swiss Army to get a Swiss Army knife.
• A two-man pup tent does not include two men or a pup.
• When camping, always wear a long sleeved shirt. It always gives you something to wipe your nose on.
• Bear bells are a great idea. The hard part is getting the bells on the bear.
• You can compress your sleeping bag by running over it with the car.

Here are some quotes, said by real hikers and campers (collected from forums):

• I’m sure that’s not poison Ivy
• I’m sure these mushrooms are edible
• Snakes? Naw…not to worry….never saw one where we’re stayin’
• Why do they put trees right where everybody wants to walk
• The ice sure looks Thick enough to skate on
• No need for reservations, this place NEVER fills up
• You should have been here last week, the fish were really biting
• What time of year do deer turn into moose?
• When can you snow shoe in the park?
• Do you get lightning here when it storms?
• The sign said fish, but there ain’t any
• How far is eight miles?
• You should be OK, it doesn’t look that bad
• There’s just one more hill to climb. It’s flat after that.
• I thought you brought the toilet paper?
• Where is everyone?
• Where are the porta-potties?

Seasonal Prep:

When you’re out on the trail, be sure to have at least a rough idea of when it gets light (dawn) and when it gets dark (dusk). This way, you know how much daylight hours you have for hiking. Because the hours of daylight are different depending on the hiking season (Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter), it’s a good idea to know where you will likely camp each evening along a trail. Have your meals prepared early (hot ones for winter, cold ones in summer) and always tell someone where you’ll be each night.

Additionally, be sure to camp in areas designated for camping. If a site is closed, then move on and find another spot. If there’s already a family there, for example, be sure to find a spot that doesn’t interrupt their time. If it’s summer, it may be best to hike early, siesta in the afternoon and then finish up a couple hours before dark. Two hours should be plenty of time to make camp, cook, clean up and relax each evening. If it’s winter, hike during the morning and afternoon and stop well before dark. Camp on top of snow whenever you can. One good rule of thumb is to start and stop early, hiking only through the daylight hours.

Backpack Prep:

There are multiple sites out there telling you how you should pack your backpack. The best way is the simplest way, organized and efficient, giving you access to all things quickly (some things more than others). There are some not-so complex ways to make trail life much more bearable. Marshal your camping equipment and you’ll never have to go digging for the TP, flashlight or mosquito spray when you need it most.

Put your headlamp or flashlight in the same outer pocket of the backpack for easy access. If you get stuck somewhere, it’s best to have a nice idea that you can escape darkness. Moreover, take your tent out of that stuff sack and arrange it around other items, distributing the weight around the backpack—rather than in one large clump. Keep cooking supplies accessible and keep at least three different fire-starters (lighter, flint and matches) in three different, waterproof places. Keep the heaviest items a shoulder blade height in the backpack and lighter items on the top. Food, of course, should not be under anything that may smash it.

Campsite Prep:

The first thing to do is set up your tent. You never know what the weather may bring. Always use a tarp or a footprint to set your on. It may be a good idea before setting up shop to lie on the ground, letting your back and body feel for poking objects. It will doubly make you uncomfortable later and rip a hole in your tent. If you’re on a slant, put your head at the top and your feet at the bottom. Set up your tent, always using stakes to tie it down.

The next procedure is the best: time to cook up one of those dehydrated meals. It may be a good idea to stay downwind from your site, in case critters or bears pay you a visit. Sleep in different clothes than you cook in as well. Moreover, gather enough filtered water to cook with, so you don’t have to leave your food alone for one second—a missed meal stolen by timid creatures doesn’t make for a happy camper! Be sure to cook out of the wind, behind piled rocks or a rock wall. You’ll save a lot more fuel in the long run. Clean up immediately after eating, tying food up into a tree if necessary. If you have friends along, dole out the workload equally. It’s a good idea to leave bags unzipped and opened so night-creatures won’t chew threw your hundred dollar packs. Get plenty of sleep and rehydrate for the ensuing days.

But it’s not always clear what you’re supposed to do with you poo. Should you make a “Poocasso”, smearing it on a rock exposed to the sun to kill the bacteria? Or is that just something a prankster camp counselor told you when you were 12 and gullible? Leaving it out doesn’t seem very civil. Packing it out doesn’t seem very fun.

If you’re on a multi-day backpacking trip in the backcountry, responsibly disposing of your waste should become second nature to pitching your tent. Remember the old camping adage: Leave only footprints, take only pictures? (Though some images would be best left to the imagination…) It’s time to practice minimum-impact, green camping!

Here’s what you need to know to enjoy your trip to the fullest without harming the environment—aesthetically or bacterially.

• If you’re somewhere with good, dry top soil…

Dig a cathole.

What’s a cathole? It’s a pit for your poo. The hole should be six to eight inches deep, and at least 120 feet away from any water sources, your campsite, or the trail, to avoid bacterial contamination. Use a stick to mix some soil in with the poo to aid decomposition. Then fill the hole with a thick layer of soil so animals won’t easily dig it up.

What you’ll need: a hand trowel.

But how do I wipe?

Many people bury their toilet paper with their feces. This is not generally advised, because animals usually dig up the paper before it decomposes. Pack it out. Or burn it. Or better yet, use nature’s own toilet paper, like a large leaf, a stick, or a smooth rock. (Just make sure you know what poison oak and ivy look like before you wipe!)

• If you’re somewhere with little or no soil, like at high altitude, somewhere rocky, snowy, sandy, in a river canyon, or in a well-traveled area…

Pack it out. Sound gross? Pretend it’s your dog’s poop, get a plastic baggie, turn it inside out, grab the poop, turn it right side out. Double bag it if you want. Or stick it in a pvc tube, as professional rock climbers sometimes do. Just don’t make a “mud falcon”, a term professional rock climber Greg Child coined for the flying paper bags of poop climbers used to drop from way up high. Nobody wants to inadvertently break that sucker’s fall!

Or…

Poocasso! Yes, in trying to prank you and your friends, your camp counselor was actually talking of an accepted method of backcountry waste disposal—IF (big IF!) you are in an extremely remote area with little topsoil, like at high altitude, above the tree line.

To properly poocasso, use a stick or another rock to smear your poop on a flat rock that will be exposed to a lot of sun. The idea is that the sun will quickly kill the bacteria in the poop. Extra points for creating an abstract painting worthy of a museum exhibition!

In conclusion, doing your business in the backcountry is nothing to be squeamish about. In fact, it’s one of the unsung joys of camping. Bury it, pack it out, or paint it according to your location.

Not only will you be blessed with a sense of calm and accomplishment from living green and protecting your environment, but you’ll also have some great stories for the campfire! If you dare to share…

But please, no pictures!

For more information on disposing of human waste in the backcountry, read this excellent article by Lindsay Watkins.

The Backpacking Campstove

As with any piece of equipment, you have to look at what your needs are and how you will use your campstove. Are you looking for a campstove for backpacking, or for your family camping trip? Each area has its own special needs and considerations. If you are looking for a good campstove for backpacking, then you are going to want something that is compact, lightweight, and reliable. The environmental side of you may also want to find a campstove that uses more of a “green” fuel. As a hiker, you know that you are going to need a campstove that you can count on. When you are out on the trail and run out of fresh water and then you must have a stove you can really rely on. The stove will become part of your survival strategy. The campstoves for backpacking range from 1/2lbs to over 2lbs (without fuel). This can make quite a difference when you are carrying this weight on your back for many miles. You’ll also have to consider the weight of the fuel as you determine your final pack weight. The next big choice is concerning the type of fuel you choose to use. The types of fuel you use can be one of the following: gas, alcohol, or wood. Of course the gas and alcohol will have to be brought with you while wood can be gathered at the campsite. If you do use wood, you will still need something to get the campstove started, such as matches, cotton balls with Vaseline, or perhaps a store-bought firestarter. The wood campstove does need some sort of starter to get a good fire started. Another factor is going to be how much you’re willing to pay. A good backpacking campstove can range from $50 to $250. The higher-end campstoves can be made of stronger lightweight materials like titanium. As you shop for your stove, consider how often you’ll be using it, how far you’ll be carrying it, and what type of fuel you expect to use.

The Camping Campstove

Whether you are in a private campground or cooking out by a lake, the needs are very different for the camping campstove. The camping campstove has some of the same considerations as the backpacking stove but there is another factor that also needs to be looked at such as how many people are you going to be cooking for and the amount of food to be prepared. Are you a Scout troop leader looking to feed your troop or a family of four on a weekend camping trip? The big deciding factor for the camping campstove might be the number of burners and the ease of how it starts. When feeding a large group, the last thing you want to worry about is wrestling with getting your stove to start. Most campstoves that are designed for camping have two burners and this also means that they weigh more, but this does give you more room for cooking. This is great for the family or cooking multiple items. Just like with the backpacking stove you are going to look at types of fuel as an issue. Many times when using the larger campstoves, the issue can be more related to the cost of using the fuel if you are going to be cooking for large numbers of people. Weight of the fuel usually is not an issue with this type of use. The camping campstove has many different aspects to consider, so this also goes back to what the user is really looking for. The price range is very similar to the backpacking campstove and also still very reasonable just like the backpacking campstove.

As you can see, campstoves differ in types of stoves, price, fuel types, size, and weights. The main point in purchasing a campstove is deciding what your needs are and how are you going to use the campstove. Campstoves are a vital piece of equipment that can make a cooking experience enjoyable or a terrible time for all. Before going out to make your campstove purchase remember this is still an important piece of equipment and do your research to have a really good idea of the many types and brands that are available. You are going to find many choices, so decide what is important to you, research, and get ready to cook your first meal on your new campstove in the great outdoors.

So, what do you do next? Well, there are three main methods of purifying water to drinking condition: boiling, treatment with chemicals, and filtration.

The tried and true method for attaining clean, safe drinking water is boiling in a pan of some sort. The CDC (Center for Disease Control) recommends keeping the water at a strong rolling boil for one minute. Some sources recommend as much as five minutes depending on the water’s origin; dirtier water requires more time. A strong, rolling boil will kill all pathogens in minutes. Even resilient bacteria in developing countries succumb with longer boiling times. Filtering out water through a piece of cloth like a bandanna before boiling will remove most organic material like dirt, moss, and algae. Unfortunately, boiling water requires an adequate amount of fuel, a hot enough fire to sustain high temperatures, and extra equipment. Boiling the water also adds a smoky flavor to the water. Adding a pinch of salt to the water or pouring it from one container to another multiple times improves the flavor. Another method for purification, though less reliable than boiling, is chemical treatment.

There are two main chemicals used for purifying water taken from a stream, pond, or other water source: chlorine and iodine. Chemical treatment is an attractive alternative to boiling because it doesn’t require much equipment or a heat source. Iodine tablets are available at pharmacies and sporting goods stores, and are effective against most pathogens. Unfortunately, iodine does not kill cryptosporidium, bacteria that cause a diarrheal disease. Iodine also creates a heavy chemical taste and the amount needed varies greatly depending on the quality of the water. The CDC only recommends iodine for short-term use, as long term exposure causes health complications. Chlorine, on the other hand, is effective for long-term use. Chlorine eliminates most pathogens, but cryptosporidium can survive in chlorinated swimming pools for days. Compared to iodine, chlorine has a less consistent germicidal use. Effectiveness depends on the PH level of the water, the organic content of the water, and the water temperature. One disadvantage to chlorine tablets is that it can break down over long-term storage or when exposed to higher temperatures. Always check the manufacturers label on iodine or chlorine tablets and follow the instructions for safety. Realistically, chemical treatment is most effective in conjunction with water filtration.

When used in with chemical treatment, water filtration is nearly as effective and consistent as boiling. Filtering the water through a piece of cloth first will help prevent the filter pores from clogging. Filters don’t require a fire or fuel and filtered water has a clean taste, but need replacement periodically. Cryptosporidium bacteria slip through most conventional filters, so look for filters designed to handle it. The CDC recommends looking for the filter labels to say one of the following for complete effectiveness against cryptosporidium: “reverse osmosis,” “absolute pore size of less than or equal to one micron,” or “tested and certified by NSE international (formerly the National Sanitation Foundation) standard 53 or NSF standard 58 for cyst removal.” Due to the risk of manufacturer’s flaws, filters are less reliable than boiling water, so treat filtered water chemically if possible to be safe. Always treat the water with chemicals after filtering, as chlorine can damage filter membranes.

Never underestimate the importance of clean, safe drinking water. Step one is finding a source of water, but you must always take precautions even if you are verging on dehydration. Boiling will always work, and chemical treatment after filtration works nearly as well. Before setting out to camp, backpack, bike, or do anything outside for an extended amount of time, know where your clean water will come from. You will have more fun and will feel better throughout your trip if you stay hydrated.